After a very very busy week, preparing for the Forge intensive, teaching and all that goes with that, I decided to take today off.

As usual I woke at 6.00am… gone are the days of sleeping in until 11.00!

The plan was to jump in the Kingswood (my boat) and head out to a break called the Alkimos, to get some waves.

Yesterday the surf report described it as ‘psycho Sunday’ – the biggest swell we have seen in months. I was hoping it might have dropped off… it did – from 5 meters… to 4 meters!… Still in the ‘bloody huge’ category.

We bounced our way over the swells, the 10 km to the wreck of the Alkimos. Somewhere out there was the wave we were seeking. We negotiated our way between breaking waves and anchored out the back – well out – these were big waves.

Despite feeling way out of our depth, Sephto and I decided to paddle across and give it a shot. We made it to the take off area and sat on the shoulder as these monsters thundered thru. Perhaps 20 years ago I would have paddled in and ‘to hell with the consequences’. Today… no!

After 20 mins out there Loges was waving at us to come back. Turns out the swells were rising and he was feeling pretty vulnerable in the boat.

We paddle back and made our way down the coast a bit. Somehow we stumbled on some quality head high waves and spent the next two hours surfing ourselves silly.

Its about as close to heaven as I can imagine!